DP making “richest” wines in Champagne

Dom Pérignon is producing the “richest” Champagnes in the region today, according to its chef de cave Richard Geoffroy.

Dom Pérignon chef de cave Richard Geoffroy

Speaking at the launch of a temperature control experiment for the 1996 vintage of Dom Pérignon Oenothèque at Les Crayerès in Reims this week, Geoffroy told the drinks business:

“I’m after richness nowadays. In recent years, Dom Pérignon has been making the richest wines in Champagne.

“We’re going against the grain. We used to be known for feminine wines, now we’re the richest of them all,” he said.

As for the 2012 vintage, Geoffroy said it would be a smaller crop than 2011, and that the wines would be “perfectly balanced” and “somewhat concentrated.”

“2012 was a red wine year – the Pinot Noir will shine. It’s a very classical vintage, perhaps the most balanced and classic ever. Nothing is in excess,” he said.

The rich and powerful 2003 vintage

In his quest for ripeness, Geoffroy told db that he was alone in leaving it late to pick this year

“I was the only one telling people to wait to pick. It was so lonely, but you’ve got to wait.

“I am pushing for ripeness. People are hanging on the convention that Champagne should be tight, high acid and edgy, but they are not responding to the realities of the climate in the region,” he said.

Geoffroy also revealed that he’s keen to explore the world of fine and rare tea, and that there may be a Dom Pérignon and tea collaboration in the future.

“Tea could be my next big project. I’ve been tasting vintage teas from Southern China from the 19^th century.

“I like the idea of single tree tea, like single vineyard wine. I’m fascinated by liquid-to-liquid correspondence and would like to do something with DP and tea,” he said.

According to Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon is working on a high profile celebrity design collaboration, the details of which will be revealed early next year.