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News
Rain poses challenges for Californian producers
A series of rain storms in California have potentially ruined a late but promising vintage in parts of the state.
Although the sun has returned for the moment, various producers have said that the situation “sucks” and is “not for the faint of heart”.
Winemakers Dennis Martin at Fetzer and David Graves of Saintsbury both told The Wine Spectator that 2011 was one of the most challenging years either of them had yet faced.
Compared to most of Europe, which has seen a relatively promising year and harvests were carried out anywhere between two to four weeks in advance of normal, California is looking at a late harvest with time running out to allow grapes to ripen properly.
After difficulties with both the 2009 and 2010 harvests, a late spring and lukewarm summer this year raised concerns, but many hoped that if it did not rain then harvesting in late October or even early November would yield a more attractive crop.
However, storms began on 5 October and hit Sonoma, and Russian River Valley in particular, very hard although other regions escaped lightly.
Two inches of rain fell in Sonoma, whereas Paso Robles further south had less than an inch.
Brix levels for Chardonnay in Russian River were often at 22.5 or less when the rains came as opposed to what is considered an optimum level of 24, yet many producers were unwilling to pick.
Although a Brix level of 22 will give 12.5% alcohol, a perfectly normal level by European standards, in the US for those selling their crop this lack of ripeness could equate to a loss of hundreds of dollars per ton.
Martin admitted to The Wine Spectator that his Chardonnay “is not looking pretty right now” largely due to botrytis, but many growers still thought it better to pick riper grapes and sort out the rot than pick a healthier but slightly under ripe crop.
Red wines have been equally affected with large amounts of Zinfandel and Syrah in Sonoma ruined by the deluge.
Many parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon in areas not that badly hit by the rain are still very under ripe and time is now running out as days grow shorter.
Chaptalisation is not allowed in Caifornia but the addition of grape concentrate is and it is expected to be used quite liberally this year.
However, despite the use of concentrate, 2011 is unlikely to be a “classic” ripe vintage for the region with comparisons to 1998 being drawn.
Yet another stupid proclamation by an unprofessional pundit. The entire vintage ruined! What about all of the great fruit that was harvested before October 5th? What about all of the great Cabernet that held fine through the rain and is being harvested now? Yes some varietals were hit hard by the rains-yet serious growers and winemakers diligently sorted in the vineyard and the winery. Is it the best vintage of the decade-hardly. Is it ruined- not even close.
Rupert, rather than quote the Wine Spectator perhaps you should get off your arse and do some work. And perhaps you should stop proclaiming in absolutes. Better yet hop a flight over the pond and see for yourself so you can get it right!
All true about Harvest 2011. One problem for many is the lack of Grape concentrate to be found. If you haven’t ordered already. You will be out of luck trying to find some.
@daniel moore I am sorry if you felt the story disparages the 2011 vintage in its entirety. Far from talking in absolutes I do say in the first paragraph that the vintage has “potentially” been ruined and the conclusion is that the Californian vintage in general will not be as ripe as normal due to it being a late year with time running out to fully ripen a great many of the red varieties that are still on the vine.
Many producers have chosen to leave grapes to ripen fully despite the rain and will filter out the rot on their sorting tables. Some regions have been hit worse than others and there will be some great wine from 2011 I have no doubt but the point of the story is that the one thing the producers didn’t want to happen – rain – did happen and has made what was an already challenging vintage more difficult.
Rupert
That is a “rotten” headline with all due respect. I don’t know why I read this stuff much less post a comment. I’m betting that a lot of great wines will be made in California from v2011. Come on man! What was the problem with the 2008 Vintage in California? I have some Cabs in my cellar that are beautiful. In my opinion a lot of the great ripe overhyped 2007’s did not hold up but there are always exceptions. I’ll bet we get some great wines that take us back to the days of 12.5 to 13.5% alc that will become profound with bottle age! Some grower’s and sites/climates deal better than others with the rain…And there are those fancy super sorting lines and some great winemakers and crews working ridiculous hours to make great wine. It will be done…oh yes…I’m going down to get an 08 Sequoia Grove Cab for dinner.
Maturity & ripeness is not only based upon brix, but acidity & flavor also play a major role. As California winemakers, we tend to find the optimal acidity & flavor at higher sugars, but that doesn’t mean we cant make wonderful wines with lower sugar ie alcohol (brix by the way is solids, not just sugars)
Ruined vintage because the sugar monkeys didn’t get their breakneck sugars to make their high alc syrupy crappolo… The author of this article does not know what the hell he/she is saying. He/she must have been talking to a segment of the winemaking group who needs high sugars to make decent wine. 22.5 brix is the standard sugar level that USED TO BE used in the 70’s and for hundreds of years before that in France. What’s wrong with an elegant 12.8% Cab or Chard? What’s wrong with a little acid (natural) in the grape. Most would add a bunch back anyways?! What a joke. This will go down as a wonderful year for us. Raisins belong in your morning oatmeal and NOT at the crushpad. give me a break.
California is a big geographical area. To make this generalization (RAIN “RUINS” PROMISING CALIFORNIAN VINTAGE) is nonsense. Incredible grapes, so far this year in the Sierra Foothills despite the rain. The fruit was healthy going into the bad weather and even the Zinfandel held-up well and was harvested at good brix with no rot. Syrah has been stellar, as well as many other varieties. High malic’s, great balance of sugar and acidity. Now Mother Nature is providing the perfect Indian Summer to bring in the remainder of our fruit.
I thought this article was fairly balanced…but…the title. Many readers only browse and remember titles. (regardless of the quotes around “ruins”
Here’s some insight into Russian River Valley 2011 vintage from an intern working the harvest (Me).
It did take vigilant watch over the vineyards and monitoring the weather closely, but you can make exceptional wine in 2011. Of course, the wines haven’t even neared completion, but things look great in Sebastopol – in the heart of the Russian River Valley!
http://seasonofgrowth.wordpress.com/