Languedoc – The Conferring of Titles

A new classification system for the Languedoc aims to simplify the region, but will it really help consumers?

THE OLD World’s New World? A treasure trove – or minefield – of unfamiliar appellations and producers? The value refuge on restaurant wine lists? The sprawling Languedoc has so many hats to choose from, it often seems unsure about which fit best or how to wear them. Every generic body faces the unenviable task of promoting all its producers, however diverse in size or quality, under one banner, but the Languedoc is still struggling to present even a clear picture of its component parts.

Last year the Conseil Interprofessionel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL) unveiled a new hierarchy for its appellations. If successfully implemented, this will see the creation of a middle tier, Grands Vins du Languedoc, and a top tier, Grands Crus du Languedoc. The pyramid initiative has sparked understandable criticism from producers and export markets alike. There are concerns that the important sounding titles, which bear little relation to other regional hierarchies, will only lead to further confusion, while the AOCs selected for each tier appear rather arbitrary. To this end, Christine Molines, export manager for the CIVL, notes that any further appellations meeting the necessary criteria of maximum yield, minimum bulk price and quality are welcome to apply for Grand Cru status at any time. “We know that some appellations are working on that subject and the CIVL encourage them to do so,” she comments.

Of course, many are delighted by the news that their wines will finally be awarded a distinctive quality tag. Isabelle de Cabissole, of Château de Jonquières, which lies within the Grand Crunominated Terrasses du Larzac AOC says: “Of course we’re excited; we’ve been working on this for 25 years and now we are getting recognition.” However, even for initial applicants, there remain a number of bureaucratic hurdles ahead. The nine AOCs selected for Grand Cru status must now vote on the decision, with further approval then needed from the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO). Molines even admits: “It is possible that INAO would not agree on the words Grand Cru du Languedoc, but if necessary we will find another way to express the segmentation.” One might have assumed the titles at least would have been cleared before the big announcement.

While the debate continues at a generic level, there are plenty of individual producers getting on with making some impressive wines. If the Languedoc is going to raise its profile above the cheaper wines, a useful but limiting reputation, then a greater number of these individual names need to break onto wine lovers’ radars. Mas de Daumas Gassac has achieved this, building a considerable following of consumers who are happy to pay significant sums for its wines. What is now needed is for other quality-focused producers to emulate this success, ideally represented in the majority by those who can show off the inherent quality and sense of place achieveable with local varieties, rather than the Bordeaux-leaning reds of Daumas Gassac.

A recent trip to the region with Roberson Wine, which is steadily building its own agency portfolio of primarily French wines, shed light on a number of producers creating confident, characterful and often inspiring expressions of their land.

Abandoning her original plan to own a nice holiday home near Pezenas, the largely self-taught Marlene Soria has now built a strong following for her two Syrah based reds and (very limited) rich, savoury, age-worthy whites at Domaine Peyre Rose. Initial difficulties in selling her wines, coupled with admirable restraint in the face of current demand, means that her wines spend seven years maturing before release. Such patience has won Soria fans among both sommeliers and consumers eager for older vintages without the challenge of cellaring costs or self-control.

Offering his own impression after the tasting, Richard Burton, head sommelier at Midsummer House in Cambridge, reflected: “I could hand-sell those wines, but not if I hadn’t been there – that makes the difference. It’s not about awards or Parker points, you need to be face to face with the producer.”

Meanwhile Nicolas Clerc, sommelier at Le Pont de La Tour in London, believes top-end Languedoc wines should present themselves less to the serious Bordeaux or Burgundy drinkers and more as an alternative for Rhône fans. “If people are ready to pay £100+ on Châteauneuf du Pape, that’s when you can move them away to wines like this,” he suggests.

Certainly the success of a lower-profile region requires energy far beyond the stage of skillful sourcing. As Mark Andrew, senior buyer at Roberson, notes: “We’ve got one of the world’s great winemakers on our books but people will still say ‘£50 for a Languedoc wine?’ We’ve got to really get behind it; it’s our responsibility to spread the message.”

Further snapshots of the Languedoc’s rich offering came with visits to Mas Coutelou, natural wine producers who successfully tread that fine line between maverick and mastermind; the feminine touch of rising star Mas des Dames; the richly textured, fresh Chenin Blanc blends being produced so successfully at Roc d’Anglade; and, down in Roussillon, the melon-fresh sweetness of Muscat de Rivesaltes produced in the shadow of the Pyrenees at Château de Corneilla. These sweet wines are both a specialised strength of the Languedoc-Roussillon region and a further identity headache. Described by Andrew as “almost a noncategory” within the UK retail sector at the moment, Roussillon’s once famous vins doux naturels from Banyuls, Maury, Rivesaltes or Muscat de St-Jean de Minervois have now fallen from the radar of all but the most ardent sweet wine enthusiasts. The good news for those prepared to hand sell or present these wines as food pairings is that weak demand can result in fabulous value, especially for older vintages, where these wines can take on characteristics reminiscent of oloroso Sherry.

Back in the Languedoc, it is laudable that the CIVL is working to create a structure which will allow the region’s best wines to earn the attention they deserve. However, the current proposal’s broad-brush appellation focus means that many exciting producers with excellent terroir will lose out. Forget passionless pyramids and meaningless titles, the Languedoc needs to get its best ambassadors in front of sommeliers, merchants and journalists who, if they recognise quality and value, should be suitably inspired to do the marketing for them. db