Robinson calls for on-trade Koshu focus

A recent tasting and masterclass from Jancis Robinson MW of Japan’s native variety, Koshu, highlighted the need for the grape’s producers to focus on the on-trade in its export markets.

Robinson drew parallels between Koshu and Swiss wines such as Chasselas. Production is small and vineyards are very parcelated. Sadly, comparisons do not stop there. She lamented that prices were, as a result, “horrific”.

Matters are not made any easier and production remains small, because of a reluctance among Japanese producers to produce Koshu. Instead they concentrate on international varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, which are more commercially viable.

Work is being done to raise the grape’s recognition in Japan, but Robinson said: “The Japanese are learning about it at the same rate as we are.”

She saw the on-trade as the best market for the grape to concentrate on. This is because, as she stressed, Koshu is in no way “a mass market item but it is perfect for the on-trade for sommeliers to hand-sell.”

Furthermore, she pointed out that the UK has lots of Japanese restaurants and a great interest in Japanese things and has a wine rather than a sake culture like that in the US.

Robinson talked of Koshu’s “stony character, that is quite unlike anything I’ve ever tasted”.

“These wines go very well with sushi,” she continued. “They are very pure and there is a natural relationship between these wines and Japanese cuisine.”

Finally, Robinson noted that Koshu’s low alcohol levels could also count in its favour with the growing trend toward lighter wines.

Rupert Millar, 03.02.2011