Profile: Tenuta Tolaini

Bordeaux Index is championing an up and coming Tuscan winery, with particular emphasis on the on-trade due to its versatile style and limited production.

Bordeaux Index recently invited the drinks business to a private tasting of the range at China Tang.

Tenuta Tolaini is a relatively new winery founded in 1999 by Pierluigi Tolaini in Chianti Classico.

After making his fortune in North America, Tolaini – a native of Tuscany whose family used to make wine – returned to set up his own winery.

After four years of looking, he finally bought 100 hectares of land at Montebello and San Giovanni, part of Castelnuovo Baradenga in Chianti.

At first he only planted 2ha and sold the wine to friends and family. However, as oenologist Samuele Righitto explained: “He is a businessman so he planted 50ha but he has no further plans to expand.”

All vineyards contain 7,000 to 11,000 plants per hectare. This means the plants produce less fruit but the roots go deeper.

“It’s slightly more difficult to manage at that density,” admitted Righitto. “But it keeps the vines in the right balance, just a little stressed.”

While Sangiovese is the real focus, there are also substantial plantings of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and smaller crops of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

To date the winery only produces IGT wines as Tolaini was adamant that it would only make DO wines when the vines were mature and interesting enough to do so.

As it stands the Al Passo fulfils all the requirements of a Chianti Classico being 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot but it will only be next February when a 100% Sangiovese is produced that the winery will have its first Chianti Classico.

Bordeaux Index, who act as agents for the winery in the UK, are focusing on the on-trade when it comes to distribution, just as the US importers – due to Tolaini’s links there one of his biggest markets – have chosen to do.

Bordeaux Index has already succeeded in introducing the wines to a few venues. One of the reasons for meeting in China Tang is that the restaurant lists the Al Passo and Picconero on its menu.

Righitto added: “We don’t want to sell to supermarkets and with a production of only 200,000 bottles a year there’s not enough for the off-trade.”

For full tasting notes and food pairings of the evening read Kristie Adams’ blog here  

Rupert Millar, 28.10.2010