Goodman raises the steaks

Goodman has upped the ante on the expanding London steakhouse scene with its new restaurant in the Square Mile. Located just around the corner from the Bank of England, this is a venue sending out clear signals that it is taking its meat seriously, with a wine list to match.

A glass-walled, temperature-controlled dry-aging room is the stand out feature of Goodman City, designed to send out a loud statement about the superior quality of its beef.

Dedicated meat lovers can enjoy the best view from the restaurant’s private dining room, while an open kitchen shows off the expert approach to getting these matured steaks plate-ready.

Most of the Goodman steak comes from Nebraskan corn-fed Angus beef, a favourite among State-side connoisseurs. Those looking for something closer to home can choose from Red Devon, Belted Galloway from the Lake District and grass-fed Black Angus from Scotland.

Once you’ve chosen your breed, it’s time to pick from a selection of cuts before the meat is cooked over three types of charcoal at 375-400°C, which steak buffs claim is the optimum temperature for sealing in juices and flavour without drying out the meat.

Head chef Olly Bird, with his background at Claridges and The Mandarin Oriental, sends out a further message that this place is about far more than just burger flipping.

As you might expect from the core food offer, the wine list is dominated by hearty offerings from California, Argentina and Australia. However, there’s plenty to please City diners in search of more classic Bordeaux, with Burgundy and New World Pinot Noir receiving a major look-in.

As a further sign that Goodman is serious about its wine list, the white wines receive far more than the cursory inclusion you might assume in a steakhouse. Albariño and Grüner Veltliner rub shoulders with Meursault and Hermitage. There’s even a 10-strong sweet wine list, seven of which are available in a 75ml guilt-free pour.

Diners looking to treat themselves properly, or those with clients to impress, can turn to the “Fine Wines and Cellar Selections” page, which features a starry line-up of big-hitters from the US, Italy, France and Spain. However, with very few of these wines more than 10 years old, perhaps this list could benefit from similar attention to maturity levels as the beef receives.

This quibble aside, Goodman is working hard to bring London’s steak scene up to the standard and reputation New Yorkers have been enjoying for years.

Gabriel Savage, 31.08.2010