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English translation celebrates Manzanilla
This week saw the launch of an English translation of Manzanilla, a book dedicated to the history, creation and culture surrounding this very particular Sherry style.
The work was compiled by wine writer Christopher Fielden in collaboration with Javier Hidalgo, director of Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana.
Originally published in Spanish last year, the English version has been updated and slightly adapted to its readership.
As a style which can be produced solely in the seaside town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, at the mouth of the river Guadalquivir, the book seeks to define and celebrate all that is unique about manzanilla, which occupies the lightest and driest end of the Sherry spectrum.
Having set the historical and geographical scene, the book provides in-depth coverage of how this particular style is produced, as well as introductions to each of the key houses and characters involved with making manzanilla.
With manzanilla representing 70% of dry Sherry sales in Spain, the book also devotes attention to the central role the drink plays in the country’s ferias and gastronomy.
The recipe for braised coot may have been removed from the English version, but details of plenty of other traditional dishes are supplied, from clams marinière to venison Sanlúcar-style, to demonstrate the versatility of manzanilla.
Perhaps most importantly, the book closes with a consideration of how a product as small-scale and quirky as manzanilla can continue to hold its place in the world wine market.
As the authors conclude: “Whatever promotional efforts are made in the future for manzanilla, it seems likely that it will never become a wine of mass consumption, but rather a niche item for the true specialist and connoisseur.”
With any luck, this book will not just provide a source of pleasure for existing converts, but help spread the message and excitement about one of the world’s most original wines.
Priced at £14.99, Manzanilla is available from its publisher at www.grubstreet.co.uk.
Gabriel Savage, 08.07.2010