Loire reds offer inexpensive taste of 2009

Looking for the ripeness and generosity of 2009’s much hyped Bordeaux but without the high alcohol and even higher prices?

Then consider the Loire, where last year’s weather ensured the reds have soft tannins, juicy fruit and freshness but alcohol levels no higher than 13%, as well as the low prices associated with this still unfashionable region.

Confirming the quality of 2009 Cabernet Franc from the Loire was international wine consultant Sam Harrop MW at last week’s London International Wine Fair.

Speaking at the Vins de Loire stand where a selection of the region’s best Cabernet Francs (and Sauvignon Blancs) were on show for tasting, he commented: “2009 all over Europe is great but in the Loire the Cabernet Franc is the greatest vintage I’ve ever seen.

“It was very warm and the driest August since 1961. The véraison process and ripening was perfect. As a result you are getting wines at 13% abv – and that’s high for the Loire – but showing no jamminess.”

Continuing on the qualities of the wines from this vintage, he said: “There’s still freshness, there’s perfume, there’s ripeness, there’s definition and wonderful soft tannins.”

Looking back, he pointed out that Cabernet Franc from the Loire has enjoyed a series of good vintages, including ’03, ’05, and ’08 as well as ’09.

“It wasn’t that long ago that people were saying there’s no consistency in the Loire but perhaps with global warming we are seeing less variation.

“It’s great for the Loire – which is getting riper fruit – and such good value for consumers as prices are so cheap.”

Considering areas within the Loire, Harrop picked out Bourgueil as an AOC for Cabernet Franc of particular quality.

“It’s the most exciting region for Cabernet Franc because it contains dynamic producers who are working together.”

Summing up his feelings on the Loire, he said: “It’s the best value wine region in the world by a country mile for me. These are very serious wines, not commercial tutti frutti brand wines, but food wines that you can buy for a song.”

2009 Cabernet Franc wines on show at the LIWF, selected by Harrop as the best for quality and regional typicity, included:

Anjou

AOC Anjou Rouge, Cuvée Iris, Domaine Sauveroy, 2009

AOC Anjou Rouge, Domaine Matignon, 2009

AOC Anjou Rouge, La Cerisaie, Domaine de la Bergerie, 2009

AOC Anjou-Villages, Château de la Mulonnière, 2009

Bourgueil
 
AOC Bourgueil, Tonnerre de Vignes, Cave des Vins de Bourgueil, 2009

AOC Bourgueil, Les Varennes, NAU Frères, 2009

AOC Bourgueil, Domaine de la Closerie, 2009

Chinon
 
AOC Chinon, Cuvée du Domaine, Domaine Charles Pain, 2009

AOC Chinon, Roche de Feu, Alpha Loire, 2009
 
Saumur-Champigny

AOC Saumur-Champigny, Cuvée Réserve, Cave des Vignerons de Saumur, 2009

AOC Saumur-Champigny, Cuvée Yves Lambert, Domaine de St Just, 2009

Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
 
AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Les Graipins, Famille Amirault-Grobois, 2009

AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Le Vau Jaumier, EARL Taluau Foltzenlogel, 2009

AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, L’Expression, EARL Taluau Foltzenlogel, 2009

AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Les Quarterons, Clos des Quarterons, 2009

AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Domaine Christian Provin, 2009

Patrick Schmitt, 27.05.2010