Trade agrees to disagree with Parker

Liv-ex’s members survey on the 2009 vintage has thrown up some interesting results from the trade that, at times, run counter to Robert Parker’s own review and at the very least forecast the most expensive Bordeaux ever.

Liv-ex’s membership numbers over 285 of the world’s biggest buyers and sellers of fine wine. The survey is an annual event and this year’s en primeur campaign has generated more than a little interest.

Jack Hibberd, research manager at Liv-ex, told the drinks business that: “Our respondents were very enthusiastic. They gave the vintage the highest marks we’ve ever seen.”

When asked which year was the best for first growths out of 2000, 2005 and 2009, 53% of respondents called 2009 the best, followed by 2005 and 2000.

A quarter also compared 2009 to 2005 with regards quality and style followed by 2003.

Polled before Parker released his own scores it is interesting to see where he and the trade agree and disagree in terms of the best and worst of Bordeaux 2009.

The members’ own preferences for the vintage puts Latour in front as their favourite wine, Cos d’Estournel as the most disappointing and Calon Ségur as the best value for money.

They also began to speculate on potential prices per bottle for the likes of Latour, Talbot, Cheval Blanc, Mouton and Léoville Las Cases. Overall the predictions show release prices as being up 120% on 2008 and 6% on 2005.

Predictions for Latour were between 300 and 550 euros a bottle, which was a 1.87% increase on 2005 and 221.3% on 2008.

If these prices are followed for the UK, it would make 2009 the most expensive release on record with prices 30% higher than 2005. Increases of 50% would not be unfeasible if the survey’s top end price predictions were met.

However, as the price speculation came before Parker’s own points were unveiled it is possible that in reality prices could be well above those suggested.

Also, some of Parker’s big hitters on the score sheet were not so enthusiastically received by the panel.

Hibberd said that, “in terms of the wines, our members gave the lowest scores to the ones Robert Parker gave the highest ones to.”

While Parker gave Cos d’Estournel a solid 99 points, it was rated the most disappointing wine by the member’s survey, possibly due to its high levels of alcohol and over-extraction which was often noted by commentators during the en primeur tastings.

Châteaux Pavie and Pichon Lalande also appeared in the survey’s top five “most disappointing” section and both received 98 and 97 points from Parker.

On the other hand the panel’s two favourites, Latour and Margaux, were both recipients of 99 Parker points.

Overall the only other point of divergence between the members and Parker was over alcohol levels and over-extraction, which the panel thought were at times too high, a suggestion not shared by Parker.

Both parties were in unison when they thought that the first growths were going to unveil “jaw-dropping” prices in the coming weeks.

Rupert Millar, 29.04.10