2009: First impressions from the trade

The initial tastings of Bordeaux en primeur 2009 have yielded positive results on both sides of the river, with early quality assessments often matching and sometimes exceeding that of 2005, but not always.

The Médoc and Sauternes appear to have fared particularly well. Alcohol and tannins are variable, ranging from 14.5% and big tannins to silkier textures and 13% alcohol.

James Suckling, writing for the Wine Spectator, said: “It’s obvious to me that 2009 was not as easy as some people think, or say. So wine producers had the opportunity to wait very long to pick.

“But they had to know when to pick each parcel of their vineyard at the right time. That takes know-how and passion. And those with both made exceptional wines, as long as they didn’t overwork the wines in their cellars.”

Producers, though, have been quick to praise the latest vintage: "In terms of quality, I rate 2009 first, then 2005, then 2000," said François Mitjavile, of Château Tertre Roteboeuf and Roc de Cambes.

John Kolasa, of Châteaux Canon and Rauzan-Ségla, said: "2009 is riper and bolder than 2005."  

Over-extracted rubbish?

Over-extraction could be a problem on both banks of the Gironde. The weather in 2009 meant that skins and solids were fully ripe and “had a wonderful potential for tactile luxury – if you didn’t push their extraction too far,” according to Michael Schuster in his blog for The World of Fine Wine.

As a result, many winemakers have been careful not to push the extraction. Thomas Duroux at Château Palmer said: “I’m obsessed here by extraction, too much and you lose the wine’s, and the year’s, identity.”

One buyer had stern words for several wines at two tastings. At the Union des Grands Crus tasting he said only four of the wines presented were worth keeping and the other 20 were “black, over-extracted monsters that would never be worth drinking”.

At the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois tasting he was even more critical, despite finding wines with considerable potential, he called 75% of the 300 wines “over-extracted rubbish”.

The reports for the first growths are generally positive though. Schuster identifies Pauillac as a “definite sweet spot”. He describes Latour as, “magnificent, all density without force, superfine, beautifully textured, the first candidate for perfection.”

A UK buyer noted: “Lafite and Latour have swapped clothes in 2009; yesterday I found the Latour fine, expressive, elegant. Today I found Lafite to be a Latour-scale monster of massive proportions.”

Left Bank richness

Palmer is one château that has performed well, “superb fruit and a wonderfully flattering feel…the best since 61?” was one description.

Meanwhile, Léovilles’ Las Cases, Poyferré and Barton also gained high praise on Schuster’s blog and Latour, Palmer and Léoville Las Cases form his three “must haves” of his trip so far. If you can afford them.

Simon Staples and the Berry Bros team were also impressed by the Médoc. Palmer was singled out as being: “simply extraordinary; juicy, succulent, rich and intense yet with wonderful poise and freshness – one of only a handful of wines we have found so far to be a true rival to 2005.”

Margaux was considered to be more consistent than 2005 as well. The BBR team has commented that the Cabernets have turned out particularly well, “and where they are within the blend is where the brilliance lies. The tannin levels are the highest ever recorded, yet they are ripe and juicy with no hint of bitterness.”

However, while parts of the Médoc have richness and subtle tannins, other areas left Schuster’s palate feeling rather battered. Cos d’Estournel, Haut Brion, Pâpe Clément and Montrose all presented wines that were “forcefully impressive” and full of “abundant tannins”.  

All of Haut Brion’s wines are 14% or over and Jean-Guillaume Prats at Cos d’Estournel jokes that his 2009 is like a vintage Port.

Right Bank power

The Right Bank’s Merlots, meanwhile, have come under closer scrutiny and have not attracted quite the same praise as the left.

The BBR team said: “The wines were disappointing to ethereal. Balance is key for the Merlots this year and we found those ‘cut’ with Cabernet retained the freshness that is so essential for harmony.”

Cheval Blanc, L’Evangile and Château Conseillante were all singled out for praise, but all contain the highest ever levels of Cabernet Franc in their blends – 19% for Conseillante and 33% for Figeac.

Schuster wrote that St Emilion and Pomerol showed very different characteristics to those of the Left Bank and that power predominates here but, “without, maybe, the particularly satisfying, easy, caressing richness of texture that there is in a high proportion of Médoc wines.”

Sauternes success

Sauternes is a potentially superb vintage. The crop was only slightly smaller than 2005 – 50,000 hectolitres to 54,000hl – and the harvest was finished remarkably quick. The onset of botrytis was so fast and even, that whole bunches could be picked in one go.

Schuster stated that acidity is higher than 2005 and 2003 but slightly lower than 2007 and 2001, however, levels of botrytis, sugar and acid suggest a consistent vintage.

He said: “The good Barsacs are tight, slender, minerally beauties; the Sauternes are broader and richer in constitution; the best of both communes are surprisingly elegant and fine-boned wines, of remarkable finesse given their sugar richness.”

2009 in Bordeaux was blessed with a cold spring leaving plenty of moisture in the soil. Flowering was healthy and even and July and August were warm, dry and sunny with cool nights. September and early October were unusually hot and a little light rain in October helped ripen the skins. The harvest went ahead under near perfect conditions.

Rupert Millar, 01,04.2010