db eats: York & Albany

Unless you actually live in NW1 or work for Bibendum, it’s easy to get distracted by some more convenient dining options south of Regent’s Park.

Well if it’s convenience you’re after, go to McDonald’s; otherwise, hop on the tube or take a brisk walk up the park to York & Albany. This Gordon Ramsay/Angela Hartnett venture had been languishing on my restaurant radar since it opened back in September 2008, so when the excuse to go finally arrived I re-jigged my diary and hurried north.

The civilised tinkle of a piano immediately set a tone that was more Regency and Regent’s Park than Camden and The Clash. Not that it felt at all stuffy inside, and apparently they pack the pianist back in his box towards the end of the week so he doesn’t have to compete with the crowd at the bar.

If you’re looking for a proper dinner-for-four, three course experience, there’s a dining room behind the bar area. Think seasonal, unfussy dishes, but probably a couple of notches up from what you’d cook for yourself at home: quail breast with hazelnut crust, chorizo and pak choi risotto or venison loin with date quinoa, wilted chard leaves and a pear and apple purée. Starters and mains average out at just under the £10 and £20 marks respectively – not cheap, but on a par with the rest of the London competition.

If you’re just after decent pub grub in a more upmarket environment, then follow our lead and settle down in the bar area. The best value deal is probably a pizza and beer or glass of Prosecco, a sophisticated but very drinkable “Angela Hartnett Selection” from Frozza, for £14.

The pizzas are made in the wood fire oven of sister business Nonna’s deli next door, where you can also pick up fresh bread, cheese, meat, wine and other goodies to take home.

Head barman Michael Pichon is an enthusiastic convert to the biodynamic movement, who goes visibly weak at the knees when you mention some of its pioneer figures. The list is a reflection of this, mostly supplied by biodynamic specialist Dynamic Vines.

While this concise list of six whites, six reds and a rosé manages to achieve a broad range of interesting styles, with a French wine buyer and Italian influence in the kitchen, don’t come in here looking for a Kiwi Pinot.

The cocktail list is definitely worth exploring before, after or either side of dinner. A spot-on Martini drew a pleasing line under a February Monday, and the Old Fashioned offered deep bourbon flavour with an Angostura lift to make you lean back and forget about that early night you’d promised yourself. For something with a little more edge, the absinthe kick to the Sazerac makes it a good moment to mention that they do bedrooms here as well.

In all, York & Albany squeezes in a pretty comprehensive offer, from deli to bar snacks, a serious restaurant, as well as a more atmospheric, evening-oriented dining area downstairs, private dining rooms and some rather nice townhouse-style bedrooms to sleep off the gastronomic excess.

Knock Ramsay’s media saturation all you like, and don’t expect to see Hartnett on pizza duty, but the pair have put together a pretty finely-tuned, downright enjoyable operation here.

York & Albany
127-129 Parkway,
London
NW1 7PS

Tel: +44 (0)207 388 3344
www.gordonramsay.com/yorkandalbany

Gabriel Savage, 09.02.2010