Vintage in France promising but no 2005

Vintage reports are continuing to rumble in from Bordeaux and Burgundy bringing with them an increasingly promising picture of 2009. Both areas have enjoyed ideal ripening conditions with warm days and cool nights throughout September and just enough rainfall to prevent vine stress. However, neither French fine wine region believes 2009 will be another ’05. 

In Bordeaux, an extended period of warm weather, as well as some of the driest conditions for a decade, have meant some producers are picking up to 10 days earlier than in 2008. Winemakers are recording low levels of malic acid and high sugar levels in the grapes but not overripe berries – fears of another 2003 have proved unfounded. 

 “It is true that acidity is low this year, but this is the characteristic trait of great vintages such as 1961 and 1982,” noted Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, owner of Château Angelus. “Despite everything we hear or read that compares 2009 to 2005, 2003 or 1989, quite a different vintage is definitely on its way.”

He added, “All the factors resemble 1982, but in addition, we have to consider vine growers’ work and high standards of vineyard management.”

In Burgundy, a warm and sunny August without excessive temperatures followed by a cooler but dry September has ensured healthy to high sugar levels in the grapes and acidity on the low side of average. It is believed that 2009 will yield wines with lower tannins that 2005.

Speaking to the drinks business, Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy director at Berry Bros. & Rudd and part-time resident of the region said of the vintage, “Everyone is thrilled. It is a bit similar to ’99 in the sense that it is a decent-sized crop, and there’s no disease – the grapes are completely ripe and healthy. It’s almost too good to be true.”

 

Patrick Schmitt, 01.10.09