BBR to publish definitive Burgundy vineyard guide

Berry Bros. & Rudd is to publish a definitive guide to Burgundy next year. Written by Jasper Morris MW, part-time resident of the region and the merchant’s Burgundy director, the book will cover in detail every classified vineyard from Chablis to the Mâcon, not just the Côte d’Or.

Morris told the drinks business that the reference book would contain, for each site, “information that won’t go out of date, such as the soil type and where it sits geographically as well as the character of the wines.”

Interestingly, the “weighty tome”, as Morris describes the 250,000-word guide, will be “without tasting notes, because I think they have no place in a book”.

He also stresses that the publication differs from other Burgundy guides because it is organised by village and classified vineyard, not by producer, although “producers will of course be in there”.

“Most books look at the 100 top producers but mine will be more like the 1,000 best vineyards,” he explains.

The guide, which Morris has been writing for the last two years, will also have a personal approach. “I’m not afraid to say ‘I’ where necessary,” says Morris.

It is also “definitely not a coffee table book. There will be maps and photos but not pretty pictures of yet another rolling vineyard,” he says, adding, “it is a reference book”.

“There will be general information too, for example how wine is made in the region, the geology, and the social life of Burgundy – how the families interact. I’ve been dubbing it ‘The Sex Life of Burgundy’,” he jokes.  

As for Berry Bros. & Rudd’s decision to publish the book, Morris points out, “It needs to go to people who love wine and are prepared to buy Burgundy and I think we [Berry Bros. & Rudd] can reach that audience.”

Commenting on the current vintage in Burgundy, Morris reports, “Everyone is thrilled. It is a bit similar to ’99 in the sense that it is a decent-sized crop, and there’s no disease – the grapes are completely ripe and healthy. It’s almost too good to be true.

“I take the trouble to actually walk through the vineyards,” he continues, “and it has been a while since I’ve seen anything so healthy – well, of course, since 2005.”

Existing books on Burgundy include:
Coates MW, Clive (1997). CÔTE ‘D’OR. A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy. Weidenfeld Nicolson

Hanson MW, Anthony (2003). Burgundy (Classic Wine Guide). Mitchell Beazley

Norman MW, Remington (1996). The Great Domaines of Burgundy: A Guide to the Finest Wine Producers of the Côte d’Or (Currently being updated)

Sutcliffe MW, Serena (2005). Wines of Burgundy (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides). Mitchell Beazley

Jasper Morris MW founded specialist wine importer Morris & Verdin in 1981. After Berry Bros. & Rudd acquired the company in 2003, Morris was appointed its Burgundy director.

Patrick Schmitt, 10.09.09