DB eats: Moti Mahal

Inspired by travels along southern Asia’s Grand Trunk road, Moti Mahal’s head chef Anirudh Arora has added a new menu that takes diners on a 2,500km culinary journey.

Incorporating dishes from Kabul to Calcutta, the original approach is an authentic exposé to the subcontinent’s array of flavours. 

Visitors to the London-based restaurant, a branch of Delhi’s Moti Mahal chain, can try 15 different dishes following the path of the 2500km Grand Trunk (GT) Road, which links east and west regions of the Indian subcontinent. 

The journey begins in Afghanistan with an unusual and delicious recipe from Kabul called Quabili Seviyan. Like an upmarket, rather richer and more exotic soufflé, it contains vermicelli and chicken baked in an egg custard.

The menu then moves to Pakistan and into the Punjab region, where the Kararee Bhyein containing deep fried Lotus root with peanuts and coriander provides a rare chance to try this plant – the national flower of India. 

Into the Punjab Hills, cod is used as an alternative to Punjabi freshwater fish but the local preparation is the same – Kadhai Palak Macchi is delicately textured with a lingering bite from the tomatoes, chilli and spinach cooked with the cod.

Further down the newly-introduced menu is a dish from Delhi called the Bhalla Papadi Chaat. Expect a crispy pastry and chickpea combination served with yoghurt, tamarind and mint chutney. 

Then onto Lucknow – a city renowned for its kebabs – where you can try three recipes, including the Hiren Ki Makhmali Seekh, a venison kebab with saffron and figs.

A final and outstanding offering, this time from Hyderabad, is Gosht – a whole leg of lamb, seasoned with cinnamon, bay and chilli. Key to its preparation is the Thattee or clamp grill, which holds the meat between two clasps. The approach has almost entirely disappeared from modern Indian cooking and head chef Anirudh Arora had to build his own Thattee grill before he could prepare the recipe. Tender, with mouth-watering spice and a touch of charcoal, this is certainly a highlight of the eye-opening culinary journey. 

Diners can also go “off the Grand Trunk Road” down to the coastal regions of southwest India or enjoy other classic Indian dishes. 

However, for an authentic, delicious and informative experience select from the GT Road, or embark on one of Moti Mahal’s three GT Road tasting menus, named after India’s most famous trains. 

What to drink?

Moti Mahal has a lengthy and wisely selected wine list by Sebastian Chaniac, operations director at the restaurant and brother of Laurent Chaniac, sommelier at Michelin-starred Indian restaurant The Cinnamon Club. 

Sebastian recommends a bottle of Josmeyer’s Mise du Printemps Pinot Blanc 2007, which manages to refresh even in the face of such a wide range of flavours. Cost: £43

There is also a bar serving imaginative cocktails made with fresh ingredients. 

Contact details:

Moti Mahal

www.motimahal-uk.com

0207 240 9329

45 Great Queen Street

London

WC2B 5AA

 

Patrick Schmitt, 28.07.09