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Cyprus; The producers
A snapshot of some of Cyprus’s pioneering wineries
Tsiakkas
Tsiakkas was founded by ex-banker Costas Tsiakkas in 1988 and is one of Cyprus’s first boutique wineries. Situated at an altitude of 1000m in the Pitsilia region of the Troodos Mountains, this high-quality and pioneering producer notably vinifies a 100% Sauvignon Blanc and is considering increasing its plantings of this international varietal, which it also uses in a blend with the local Xynisteri grape.
Tsiakkas also produces an oaked and an unoaked Chardonnay, an organic and a non-organic Cabernet Sauvignon, a Grenache rosé and a Vamvakada, which is the local name for the indigenous red grape, Maratheftiko.
The winery is looking to increase its presence in foreign markets and already exports to the US, Switzerland, the UK and Greece. Currently 140,000 bottles are made each year with the help of an oenologist from Greece called Lefteris Mohianakis.
Lambouri
Lambouri is named after founder and winemaker Christakis Lambouris who still oversees the annual production of 80,000 bottles at the age of 67. He began the business in 1988 in the village of Kato Platres in the Troodos Mountains, and sold the winery to Bolita Trading in 2001, the same year he completed the construction of a new winery with a 300,000-bottle capacity, equipped with two rotofermentors.
Forty per cent of production is made using grapes from Lambouri’s own vineyards and Christakis Lambouris specialises in blends of indigenous and international varieties, for example Xynisteri and Riesling, or Grenache and Maratheftiko (rosé).
He favours light, food-friendly wine styles, for example his Xynisteri has an ABV of 11%, and would like to bottle under screwcap for whites, but is concerned by the low-value image of this closure in the local market.
Currently Lambouri wines can be found outside Cyprus in the US, Israel and Germany.
Ayia Mavri
By accident, not design, Ayia Mavri is a sweet Muscat specialist of note. A Muscat surplus in 2004 forced winemaker and owner Yiannoula Ioannidou to leave excess grapes in the sun to reduce volumes before vinifying the raisined result.
The ensuing wine was entered into the Muscats du Monde competition where it gained a gold medal and the producer, based in the Kilani village at 1,100m in the Troodos foothills, has been making sweet Muscats ever since, and exporting them worldwide.
Ayia Mavri’s first wine was made in 1983 and winery built in 1986. Currently 50,000 bottles are made each year from a variety of grapes, including Xynisteri, Riesling, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and plans are in place to further expand the production of the prettily-packaged sweet Muscats.
Vardalis
Almost E2 million have been lavished on the impressive stone clad Vardalis winery and visitor centre in the Kilani village in the Troodos foothills. The new cellar was finished in 2002, while 2006 saw the addition of a terrace with far reaching views, as well as a tasting and a function room.
Production has risen from 20,000 bottles in 2002, Vardalis’s first vintage, to a current figure of 100,000, while the winery has the capacity to make 200,000 bottles – and is aiming to slowly increase production to this level.
Vardalis is a self-professed Maratheftiko and Cabernet Sauvignon specialist, but also shows expertise with Shiraz and the white Xynisteri. Currently 50% of the wine produced is from the winery’s own vineyards. Export markets include the UK, where the wines have a loyal following in Cypriot restaurants.
Fikardos
One of the largest independent regional wineries is Fikardos with a production of 300,000 bottles. Presently based in the Mesogi industrial area just outside Paphos, owner Theodoros Fikardos has historically made wine entirely from bought-in grapes but has recently purchased 40 hectares in the Arodes Village (650m) in the Akamas Laona region, 20km from the current winery. Here he plans to plant a mix of international varieties such as Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc and indigenous grapes Xynisteri and Maratheftiko.
He also hopes to finish a new winery on the site by 2011 with the capacity to produce 300,000 bottles.
Presently his most popular wines include a Xynisteri-Semillon blend (and next year he will experiment with a Chardonnay-Xynisteri mix), 100% Maratheftiko, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and Lefkada-Cabernet Sauvignon dual varietal.
Fikardos exports small quantities to markets such as Germany, Switzerland and Russia but sells mainly to hotels, restaurants and retailers in Cyprus, and mostly in Paphos.
SODAP
SODAP is one of Cyprus’s four large-scale historic wineries and a cooperative uniting as many as 10,000 growers, vinifying almost 4m litres of wine. Founded in 1947 with its base in the city of Limassol, in 2004 it moved its winemaking operations to a new winery called Kamanterena among the vineyards of the Paphos mountains, just outside the Stroumbi village.
Notably SODAP is the producer of the Island Vines brand, begun in 1997 in partnership with British retailer The Co-op, with the support of UK agent and importer Bottle Green. At its peak, Island Vines sold 1m bottles of white and red wines through the UK supermarket.
Germany is SODAP’s third largest market, after Cyprus and Britain, and the north European country currently consumes 500,000 litres of SODAP’s wines. The cooperative uses local and international varietals, and makes a number of internationally oriented lines which are endorsed by a littering of medals from global wine competitions.
Vouni Panayias
Vouni Panayias must have one of the best views in Cyprus. Perched on a mountain side at 850m it has an uninterrupted outlook across the island and over the surrounding vineyards of the Panayia region in the Paphos district. Ideally placed for both winemaking and tourism, the winery has invested e5m in a new complex for visitors. Almost finished is a tasting centre and a small museum.
The winery, founded in 1987, produces 500,000 bottles per year and exports small quantities to the UK. Owner Andreas Kyriakides is currently adding Shiraz and Chardonnay to his plantings of mostly indigenous varieties.
Kalamos
Kalamos, like Vouni Panayias, has bold plans to increase its on-site facilities for tourists. The family-run business is moving from its current site in the quiet Amargeti village in the Paphos district to a new plot further up the road where there is space for a larger winery and a restaurant.
Expansion plans are being boosted by the energetic input of owner Thalis Ignatiou’s son, Thanasis.
Currently Kalamos is making 60,000 bottles each year, which consist primarily of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon as well as indigenous grapes Xinisteri and Maratheftiko.
KEO
KEO is the largest wine producer on Cyprus, vinifying as many as 3m bottles each year. Founded in 1927, it is one of the big four original vinous operators on the island, and exports 10% of its production, 80% of which goes to Britain, through agent Ehrmanns.
The company concentrates on indigenous varieties such as Marathefliko and Xynisteri, often blended with international grapes, and makes a range-topping single varietal Maratheftiko called Heritage, sold in a gift box.
Currently KEO owns 50 hectares of vineyard but plans to increase this as part of a push towards quality wine production. It is also the proud owner of the only machine harvester on the island.
In 2005, KEO moved its winemaking operations from Limassol to its Mallia estate in the Troodos Mountains, and plans to shift its bottling line to this site too, according to winery manager George Metochis.
Domaine Nicolaides
Tucked away in the pretty village of Anogyra (Limassol district) is one of the most impressive small wineries in Cyprus. Named after its founder, the winery was started in 1986, and is now run by his grandson, Nicos, who was trained at the Montpelier school of viticulture and oenology, and heads up the Bacchus Association of Regional Wine Producers of Cyprus.
Of the 100,000 bottle production, Nicolaides has developed repute for its rich, sweet Muscat, Grenache rosé, Maratheftiko and range-topping Conte Nicolaides label – a Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc blend.
Currently Domaine Nicolaides exports 5-10% of its production to the US, UK and German markets.
Aes Ambelis
Aes Ambelis stands out not only because it is miles from any neighbouring winery but also because of the modern, simple and elegant architecture employed in its design. The E2m building, completed in 2000, alongside the road from Nicosia to Palehori, comprises a round winery, intended to resemble a barrel, and glass fronted tasting room.
Founder George Tripatsas began making wine as a hobby in 1993 and committed to building the current winery in 1998. He then quit his job as an investment banker in 2001 to devote his full attention to the business, which now amounts to 200,000 bottles.
Aes Ambelis is producing impressive results with both indigenous and international varieties, including a Xynisteri/Semillon blend, barrel-fermented Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and a red blend with Cabernet Sauvignon/Mouvèdre/Lefkada/Mara-theftiko. He also makes a sweet Muscat and Cabernet Sauvignon/Grenache/Maratheftiko rosé which was, according to Tripatsas, voted the best wine in Cyprus, when he released the first vintage, a 2006.
The winery exports to Germany and Switzerland, as well as Britain through UK agent Vernon Wines.
Krelan
Yiannakis Christoudias is both owner and winemaker at Krelan Winery. He produces 80,000 bottles under the Krelan label, 10% from his own vineyards, although he hopes to increase that to 50% with newly leased land.
Currently there are six wines in the range including an oak aged Xynisteri, dry Muscat, medium-sweet Muscat, red blend, Cabernet Sauvignon and Maratheftiko.
Although 1999 was Krelan’s first “official” vintage, Christoudias has been making wines for friends and family since the early 90s.
db © 2008