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PORT TRENDS: To be young and single
“standfirst”>Led by trends in the US, UK consumers are enjoying young vintage Ports, as seen by the rise in popularity of single quinta vintage Ports which are finally gaining the recognition they deserve. By Fionnuala Synnott
The perception that single quinta vintage Ports are value for money accounts, in part, for the growing commercial success of this style. But other consumer trends have also had a positive impact on sales.
The US fashion for drinking Port young appears to have had a ripple effect within the category and is assisting the rise in consumption of single quintas, which generally reach maturity earlier than classic vintages. Lucy Sewell, Beam Global UK marketing manager for Cockburn’s, says: “One reason for their rise in popularity could be the fact that young single quintas have become fashionable in the US market, and this trend could have crossed the Atlantic.”
Tim Stanley-Clarke of Symington Family Estates observes: “Generally, there is a much wider acceptance for drinking younger vintage Port these days. Traditionally, Symington Family Estates only releases its single quinta vintage Ports when they are ready for drinking. However, we release a small quantity en primeur from Quinta do Vesuvio, Quinta do Roriz, and Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira. People can now enjoy the exuberant youth of vintage Port, as well as drinking it 20 years later when it is equally enjoyable.”
But Taylor’s MD, Adrian Bridge, is not entirely convinced that all US consumers are drinking their Port young. “Port is served young in bars and restaurants but you would be surprised at the number of people who are laying it down. You therefore cannot subscribe interest in single quintas to the trend for drinking Port young. In fact, in the UK most of our single quinta volume is sold when the wines are relatively mature at eight, 10 or 12 years of age.”
On the technical side, improved vinification methods in the Douro have helped to make young vintage Port wines more approachable. Aymeric de Gironde, international sales director for AXA Millésimes, which produces Quinta do Noval, says: “The improvement of vinification techniques has led to better control of the harvest and the grapes.” Meanwhile, Stanley-Clarke describes the advent of the robotic lagar as a “real revolution in winemaking”, leading to terrific fruit extraction and juicy wines.
| Classic vs Quinta
Single quinta vintage Ports are often described as lacking the complexity and ageing potential of classic vintage Ports. However, the style is growing in popularity – particularly in the UK and the US, the top two markets for vintage Port. According to the Port trade, single quintas represent great value for money. Taylor’s MD Adrian Bridge says: “Single quinta vintage Port is a quality product sold at a very competitive price. People have realised that they can buy top quality wine from a top shipper without overstretching themselves.” As Tim Stanley-Clarke of Symington Family Estates puts it: “You can buy a cracking bottle for under £25.” There is a significant price difference between single quintas and classic vintages, with single quintas selling for half or even a quarter of the price of a classic vintage. But despite this disparity in pricing, the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (IVDP) does not acknowledge a qualitative difference between the two styles. Marketing director Paolo Russell-Pinto explains: “The IVDP guarantees the words ‘vintage Port’ on the label. Therefore, from our perspective, there is no difference in quality between a single quinta vintage Port and a classic vintage Port. The criteria used by the tasting chamber are exactly the same. They look for fruit, tannins, structure and ageing potential. This ensures that the wine in the bottle is of sufficient quality to bear the word ‘vintage’ on the label.” |
Aspirational
Consumer desire for all things premium has also led people to trade up within the Port category. Sewell comments: “There is a general trend in the UK towards trading up and premiumisation driven by a consumer desire for quality. This trend is apparent both in the off- and the on-trade.”
The profile of the Port drinker has also changed: “There is a wider cross section of consumers now buying and drinking Port, including more women and younger drinkers. This is also contributing to the demand for niche Port, especially among younger, discerning, image conscious consumers who are willing to pay for a prestige product,” she adds.
As consumers trade up, so they become more knowledgeable and adventurous. Quinta do Noval’s de Gironde, says: “Individuals can identify more easily with small brands than large ones. Consumers like to feel that they have discovered something new and are looking for a brand to fit their individual taste.”
If the price is right
As with any drinks category, getting the pricing right is also key to getting consumers on board. Sewell says: “For niche Ports in particular another driver has probably been the pricing of Port in the UK over the last few years. Many consumers make a direct association between quality and price and so will seek out more expensive niche Ports in order to feel comfortable that they are choosing quality.”
Paolo Russell-Pinto, marketing director at the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (IVDP), thinks the discrepancy in price between single quinta and classic vintage Ports can be explained by the shippers’ need to build a hierarchy within their product range. “Single quintas give companies an opportunity to show very good wines that they don’t have a large volume of to consumers. Because single quintas do not have the same brand recognition as classic vintage Port, shippers cannot charge the same price for them.” Stanley-Clarke agrees with the need to build a brand ladder: “Like any wine, there are rungs in the Port ladder – single quinta is one such rung. Vintage Port still has enormous cachet. It is not just senior citizens and traditionalists that aspire to it.”
On- and off-trade support
The multiple grocers have also exerted their power over the growth of single quintas. Taylor’s Bridge explains: “Before, single quintas used to only be sold in specialist retailers. Nowadays, they are sold in part through the multiple grocers as supermarkets look to expand their ranges to include higher-priced Ports.” He expects this trend to continue as supermarkets gradually add classic vintage Ports to their ranges. Although many consumers will not be familiar with the concept of the quinta, the vintage Port cues and branding are helpful when it comes to moving stock that cannot be hand sold in supermarkets.
For the very niche Ports, the on-trade is also a good outlet for driving the popularity of single quinta Ports. According to Sewell, sommeliers are keen to list Ports that are not widely available elsewhere, particularly at the top end of the on-trade. It is also a good way for restaurants to increase spend per head. She explains: “Sommeliers are doing a great job pushing single quinta Ports and helping with the task of educating consumers about different Port styles. You see many more single quinta Ports listed by the glass now than you would have done a few years ago.” But Stanley-Clarke disagrees: “Although there has been a concerted effort in the on-trade with signs that sommeliers have finally got to grips with single quintas, restaurants are still not offering enough vintage Port by the glass and are not serving it properly. Vintage Port should be served in a wine glass and enjoyed as a wine. The old excuse that it goes off no longer applies as the Vacuvin nitrogen system is available in many mainstream London restaurants.”
Changing view of quinta
The concept of the quinta is not as alien as it once was thanks to active marketing by Port shippers and the emergence of table wines from the Douro valley, both of which have led to an increase in tourism to the region. Célia Lima, marketing and tourism director, Sogevinus Fine Wines, says: “A few years ago, people had a different understanding of what single quinta meant, perhaps because of the difference in price between single quinta and classic vintage Port. But, since then, there has been a lot of development and investment in different quintas with everyone promoting them. The concept is perhaps not so well understood in Portugal but other countries know the difference.”
Stanley-Clarke thinks that, in general, public recognition is a lot better now than it was before. “When single quinta vintage Ports first became available in the UK, people didn’t understand the concept of the single quinta. It was like pushing water up a hill.”
The good news for the Port community is that this trend is set to continue. Lima says: “The popularity of single quinta Port will grow as more quality investment is made in viticulture and Port brands.”
Although the single quinta category is buoyant and exciting, with signs that some people are starting to understand exactly what the term means, there is still a lot of confusion surrounding the concept. Russell-Pinto says: “We spend a lot of time explaining that single quinta is the same quality as vintage Port as it is usually not clear in the mind of the consumer or sometimes even trade members.”
Cockburn’s Sewell says: “A small number of wine connoisseurs will be knowledgeable but on the whole, there is a lack of understanding of what an LBV is in comparison to the vintage, let alone single vintage quinta Ports.”
Education among consumers is key to driving Port sales. “Port comes in a variety of different styles, and as producers we need to find ways of communicating with consumers in a way that simplifies rather than confuses,” says Sewell. Stanley-Clarke agrees: “Port can be a minefield of a category. It is purely through education and tasting that we will demystify it.”
Taylor’s Bridge thinks that vintage Port should be promoted by all concerned: “It is the ultimate expression of the Douro terroir and is the pinnacle of what we do.”
Once consumers understand that single quintas from top shippers are sometimes superior to classic vintages from a lesser shipper, it cannot be long before Port producers decide to raise the price of single quinta vintage Ports, driving the consumer to discover another style within the category. The moral of the story? Buy your single quintas before prices increase.
|
Madeira latest Madeira is attracting significant interest in the upmarket on-trade with vintage Madeiras and colheitas in particular captivating top sommeliers. Xavier Rousset, who is opening a new restaurant called Texture alongside head chef Agnar Sverrisson, thinks Madeira is very underrated. In order to increase diners’ awareness of this fortified wine, Rousset will be serving eight Madeiras by the glass when the London restaurant opens this month. From a sommelier’s perspective, Madeira is a very valuable addition to the wine list as it keeps for up to two or three years, resulting in little or no wastage. Madeira’s versatility also adds to its on-trade appeal. Tim Stanley-Clarke from Symington Family Estates feels that Sercial, in particular, has an excellent future: “It makes a delicious apéritif as it has lots of complexity, delicacy and length.” However, at 19%, Madeira is subject to a higher duty rate. This means that, pro rata, a glass of Madeira is more expensive than a glass odß fino or manzanilla. Back at Texture, Rousset thinks Madeira charges the palate too much to be served as an apéritif, particularly given that the restaurant’s main focus is fish. Instead, he intends to serve it as a lighter alternative to Port, and will start offering it at the cheese course. Joanna Delaforce at Mentzendorff is feeling positive about the category: “A lot more on-trade venues are putting Madeira on their wine list. Even my local pub is carrying two different styles of Malvasi. Slowly but surely, we have managed to show that Madeira is not just for cooking, but also for drinking.” According to Delaforce, Metzendorff has seen good growth of Henriques & Henriques in its first year as its distribution agent. “We have managed to increase distribution. Chez Bruce is new this year. We’re also listed at Boodles, The Goring, Hotel du Vin, Gordon Ramsay, the Bleeding Heart and Brookes.” Madeira is still a niche category, selling between 45,000-48,000 cases compared to nearly a million of Port. Stanley-Clarke observes: “People love Madeira in the trade but sales are still flat. However, there are some very encouraging indicators at the top end. Particularly with 10 and 15 year-old Madeiras.” Delaforce has also noticed an increase in consumption. “Six years ago, we sold 75 cases (16 x 50cl bottles) of 10-year old Malvasia. Now we’re selling 750 cases. In the 1960s, Madeira was on top and Port was in the doldrums but now Madeira is making a comeback, albeit in small figures. This is because the mix of people who drink it has changed – more people are trading up.” But consumer knowledge of Madeira still leaves a lot to be desired. According to Rousset, people don’t know how Madeira is made even though the English have had a huge influence on it. “People don’t know if it’s Spanish or Portuguese.” Delaforce says: “Although the trade is very supportive, we need more consumer education. We have to dispel the myths: Madeira is not for Saga holidaymakers.” Although the on-trade is supportive of quality Madeira, some feel that the lack of generic support is holding the category back. Unlike the other fortified categories, Madeira is a poorly funded industry. Delaforce says: “Any money that we do have goes towards supporting events such as the Portuguese embassy tasting. This tasting is very useful as it attracts a hell of a lot of sommeliers.” Pending an injection of marketing funds into the Madeira category, it is down to brand leaders and sommeliers such as Rousset to increase consumer awareness of this underrated fortified wine. |
© db September 2007