Rum in a million

There’s no question that rum has plenty of work to do if it is to be perceived as a truly premium proposition. While brave new product development and slick marketing have ensured that aspirational gin and vodka drinkers can trade up within their category of choice, the rum segment is still seen as more the preserve of the gnarled, old sea dog than the sexy, sophisticated socialite. Ben Grant discovers how one plucky player looks set to turn the tide.

There are a number of decent-quality rums on the market, and, nestled in cellars across the Caribbean, a wealth of terrific spirit is ageing nicely. And in terms of the drink itself, a few of the finest rums have a strong case to be invited to the top table of the spirits world. No, the problem with rum has nothing to do with the raw materials or the process. It’s simply a question of image.

Bacardi has, of course, driven phenomenal volumes, but it is now seen more as commodity than luxury; Lambs is perceived as more naval tonic than a delicacy; Havana Club is faring well in the image stakes, but this owes more to the current cachet of all things Cuban than the intelligent design of the brand owner.

In an increasingly homogenous and mass-produced world, consumers are desperate to buy into brands and products through which they can identify themselves. It’s all about finding a point of difference, a little niche that infers some semblance of individuality. It goes without saying that the quality must be there, but in order to succeed with today’s choosy consumer, a brand has to go the extra mile in the individuality stakes.

Fortunately for the rum world, it appears that one of their number, Rones de Guatemala, has finally recognised this imperative. The brand has orchestrated an ambitious project that finally gives the niche, luxury-seeking drinker a reason to pick rum – specifically, its own flagship 23-year-old Centenario brand. The company has teamed up with Bohemian glass-blower Riedel, the originator of the functional wine glass, to create the first glass shaped specifically to emphasise the subtle nuances of a rum.

White- and red-wine glasses (or, indeed, receptacles tailored specifically for certain varietals), Champagne flutes, whisky tumblers, brandy snifters… The design of all of these various glasses accentuates the aroma, taste and the look of the relevant drink.

But in the mind of the consumer, it’s about much more than just sensory perception; the charm of the functional glass is how it makes the drinker feel. When you sip Champagne from an elegant flute, it is no longer a case of simply "having a drink". It’s a similar process when you serve your guests Cognac in a decent Cognac balloon. In both of these scenarios, it’s no longer a case of mere consumption. These lucky consumers aren’t just drinking – they’re experiencing. In an increasingly cash-rich but time-poor world, a little "theatre" – in the shop, in the bar or at home – lends the brand an experiential allure that will lodge itself firmly in the front of the mind. And you can guess which name they’ll be looking out for next time.

The Centenario glass was developed by a panel of 10 international rum enthusiasts in March. Rones de Guatemala and Riedel have been working hard since then to prepare the product for market in the form of a gift pack combining a bottle of spirit with two glasses. It will be launched at the Tax Free World Association exhibition in Cannes in October, with a limited roll-out focused predominantly on travel retail.

This project will not generate volumes to threaten the Bacardi family, but the objective is not about going mass-market. The idea here is to reinforce the quality nature of the product among existing consumers; to give drinkers of other rums a compelling reason to switch brands; and, most critically, to convince rum avoiders that the category really does have something to offer them.

It remains to be seen how the market reacts, but the Centenario glass looks set to tick all three boxes. The company has managed to achieve an ultimately paradoxical product, one that is both exclusive and inclusive: it warmly welcomes consumers into the brand universe with open arms, but it still has the feel of a members-only club.

© db 16th August 2006