Patrick Schmitt considers an occasion when proposing a new look for an old label incites uproar

Patrick Schmitt considers an occasion when proposing a new look for an old label incites uproar. What may be dated for some is iconic for others

A lunchtime discussion, fuelled by the consumption of the very product at the centre of the disagreement, raised an important point in the drinks industry – when is it detrimental to the brand to update, even completely change the packaging?

In the glass, and on the table, was a selection of wines from Rioja stalwart – Marqués de Murrieta. The white Murrieta, along with Viña Tondonia, is, I think, it’s fair to say, the only classic white Rioja to really have a reputation in this country. It may be a style of wine that divides opinion, but for those that like it, it usually encourages loyalty to the point of obsession.

White Murrieta, like white Tondonia, comes in a highly distinctive bottle – straight sided and importantly, clear-glass, ensuring the golden colour of old wines is instantly visible.

On the table over lunch was the latest vintage of the Murrieta Capellania – a 100% Viura from 2001 with some 21 months in American oak. Creamy, nutty and yet still refreshing, it’s a fantastic wine, but there was something very different about the 01 vintage – the packaging had altered significantly. Imagine a deep punt, broad sloping shoulders, green glass – it was like an old Burgundy bottle – with the label, small and understated, placed near the base, emphasising the single vineyard source, Capellania, not the DO, owner or vintage. Attractive it certainly was, but it no longer appeared part of the Murrieta family – more like an adopted child than a distant cousin.

The motivation for the change was not just to refresh the look, and in doing so perhaps bring in a younger audience, but also to reflect a tweak to the winemaking – less oak, more fruit…

Is it misguided? Sales will no doubt prove me wrong, but for the devoted consumers of Murrieta, it appears an ill-advised move – the packaging had become integral to the brand, like the red and yellow of Colman’s mustard, and also Marmite, as well as J&B Scotch (interesting that these three timeless brands all rely on yellow and red as their core colours).

Having noted that, I’m sure Capellania’s different look will entice new consumers, for whom the traditional Spanish packaging, while fine for reds, was ill-fitting for whites.

As for Castillo Ygay, when Murrieta’s owner suggested altering this iconic wine’s look towards the end of lunch, there was uproar. We were quickly assured that this 150 year-old design was simply to be printed on higher quality paper, while a bottle number would be added to each wine. Like a historic building, this piece of packaging should be preserved without alteration.

© db 28th June 2006