Antipodean Achievement

M&S wine buyer and Kiwi Sam Harrop has just received his MW.  In celebration we asked him about his time in the industry

the drinks business: How did you get started in the wine trade?

Sam Harrop: I was studying for a commerce degree and hating every minute of it.  As you would expect, such discontent led to me spending quite a bit of time in the pub contemplating my future career.

This soul searching gave me a real appreciation for alcohol so I decided to explore a career in it and took a job at Stoneyridge Vineyards in my holidays.  After my first day in the vineyard I new that the wine industry was the place for me.

db: What excites you most about the wine world today?

SH: Up and coming fine wine regions to rival the traditional strongholds of Bordeaux, the Rhône, and Burgundy etc.  More and more growers in regions such as Priorato, Central Otago, the Roussillon, Minervois etc. are gaining cult status and this really adds dimension to the fine wine offer.

This additional competition also keeps producers in traditional regions on their toes.

db: Is there anything you dislike about the industry?

SH: Pin striped suits!

db: What is your tipple of choice – after wine, of course?

SH: Marks & Spencer Irish Cream Liqueur, of course.

db: What projects are you working on right now?

SH: With Marks and Spencer there’s a lot of travelling involved, in doing the 2003 Northern Hemisphere blends with our suppliers.  I have a project going on in Bordeaux where we are challenging a few wineries to make some delicious, ripe £4.99 Claret. Is it possible? I think so – especially from the 2003 vintage.

I’m off to California and New Zealand in December/January for supply base reviews and looking at new product development – perhaps a sensational Syrah from New Zealand and some classy Pinot from California.

Outside of Marks and Spencer I have started a small biodynamic winery in the Roussillon with winemaker Tom Lubbe.  We’ve named it Domaine Matassa and as I’m sure you can imagine it manages to take up most of my weekends!

db: Do you miss the Antipodean way of life?

SH: Yes and no.  Things tend to go much slower down under and there’s always more time in the evenings and weekends.  It’s a lot more relaxed and laid back.  I miss the people who are great and also the beaches which are beautiful.

Clearly, however, it’s a long way from the rest of the wine world and just a tad remote, so from a career perspective I find being close to Europe more interesting as there’s loads more going on.

db:  What do you like best about the industry in the UK?

SH:  There’s a lot of interesting and eccentric people in the trade in the UK.  Most people are really friendly and it makes working in this industry a lot of fun.

db:  Where is it all heading?

SH:  As much as I love winemaking, I currently find wine buying equally as fascinating. Working and buying in the UK gives me the opportunity to be very close to the customer and to understand the everchanging consumption patterns in this exciting wine market.

With a growing global wine surplus there is going to be some real opportunities to grow the percapita wine consumption over the next few years. 

If I can contribute to this growth and defend wine quality and associated value for the customer at the same time, I will be happy.  I guess that means I’d like to stay in buying, at least in the medium term. 

db:  Do you wear M&S undies?

SH:  Definitely… nothing else gets close!