Grenache takes root in Chile

Viña Morandé is hoping to capitalise on the growing profile of Mediterranean varieties in southern Chile with the launch of a Grenache-dominated blend.

Ricardo Baettig of Viña Morandé shows off his Grenache at the Mercado Andino tasting in London this week

“If Cinsault works then why not Grenache?” said Ricardo Baettig, chief winemaker for Morandé, which has vineyards in Casablanca, Maipo, Maule and Itata.

Noting that the winery’s founder, Pablo Morandé, was born in the Cauquenes sub-region of Maule, Baettig highlighted the particular importance of this increasingly dynamic southern area to the company.

After grafting Grenache onto old Semillon vines here seven years ago, Morandé first used the grapes to produce a cheaper rosé style until the vines became sufficiently established to aim for a more ambitious expression of Grenache.

The first vintage in 2011 featured just 300 cases and, although the 2012 now being offered to the UK is a little larger, Baettig noted that current plantings limit future production to a maximum of 800 cases.

Bottled under the brand’s Edición Limitada Black label with the name Mediterráneo del Maule and an RRP of around £15.49, the wine is a blend comprising 54% Grenache, with the rest a co-fermentation of Syrah/Marsanne, and Carignan/Roussanne.

“We thought we would be the first to make a Grenache, but when we released it we found about five others were making it in different regions,” Baettig told the drinks business as he suggested that there was a quiet movement towards this often under-appreciated variety in Chile as part of a wider Mediterranean influence.

While acknowledging that at 15% abv the wine displays Grenache’s natural tendency towards high alcohol levels, Baettig praised its “amazing” acidity, noting: “The pH is even lower than in our Sauvignon Blanc from Casablanca.”

Although the 2012 vintage was made using 20% new barrels, Baettig outlined his intention to use entirely old oak in future on the grounds that “I have found with Mediterranean varieties that new oak is too marked.”

In keeping with the company’s embrace of larger foudres since 2008 – its entire Gran Reserva range is now matured in this format – Baettig revealed that he had bought some additional untoasted foudres from Alto Adige, which he was planning to use for future vintages of his Grenache blend.