What makes a cru in the land of vin de pays?

As the Languedoc-Roussillon unravels a new quality hierarchy for its regions, we take a look at those in its top tier – and one that desperately wants to be.

The Languedoc-Roussillon, although best known for its vast volumes of Vin de Pay’s d’Oc (or Pay’s d’Oc IGP), is home to one of the greatest developments taking place in the French wine industry at present: an attempt to introduce a quality hierarchy.

Already partly formulated, it takes on a typical pyramidal structure, with just a few places capable of occupying the peak, and a wide base of less rarefied offerings.

At present, the Institut National d’Appellations d’Origine (INAO), which governs the AOPs in the region – and since 2009 IGPs too – has officially recognised three aspects to this new approach.

This includes a top tier termed crus du Languedoc (having blocked for the moment the use of a proposed grands crus de Languedoc), a mid-level called grand vin du Languedoc, and the base which uses AOP Languedoc.

The latter, created in 2007, has been introduced to allow blending across the entire Languedoc-Roussillon and replaces AOC Coteaux du Languedoc, which covered just the coastal plains (although the use of Coteaux du Languedoc will be allowed until 2017).

But there’s also a fourth tier that has not been given the seal of approval from the INAO and hence won’t be seen on labels.

It’s called terroir d’exception du Languedoc, and sits between the grands vins and crus levels.

Currently, just four crus exist in the region, but there are as many as 10 other regions and sub-regions which would like to upgrade from the grand vin tag to cru status.

Before they can join the leaders, they must prove themselves worthy – and the term terroir d’exception is being awarded to geographical areas that are producing wines that are distinct and well-made, but not quite at the cru level.

Such districts are required to meet rules on yields, grape types and proportions, as well as retail selling prices which have been set for the crus – depending on their location – by the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL), and approved by the INAO.

Common requirements include 45hl/ha maximum yields (50hl/ha for whites) and a retail price of more than €10 per bottle.

In a sense, terroir d’exception is a sort of boot camp for wannabe crus.

For more on those attempting to earn cru status, see the upcoming October issue of the drink business.

In the meantime, featured over the following pages, are the four areas that have already become crus, and one which is somewhat cheekily already pretending to be one.

And finally… it’s also important to add, as Christine Molines, export manager for the CIVL recalls, the use of grands crus de Languedoc has not been entirely scotched by the INAO, and may yet emerge for superior single vineyards within the current or future crus.

1 Minervois la Livinière

Minervois la Livinière, which achieved AOC status in 1999, was the first of the four to become a cru.

Based in the foothills of the Black Mountain, its wines benefit from poorer soils and a slightly cooler climate than the rest of the Minervois.

Syrah is the cru’s standout grape, achieving concentrated but spicy and surprisingly refreshing results here.

Robert Eden, who runs Château Maris in the subzone says the area is marked by the “lushness of the garrigue – the Syrah gets impregnated with that”.

The area achieved its newfound status primarily because the producers worked together to prove they were above the rest.

2. Corbières-Boutenac

Like Minervois la Livinière, it’s cooperation that saw Corbières-Boutenac achieve its own AOC in 2005 and cru status in 2011, although it’s Carignan, not Syrah, that sets this area apart.

Ancient vines, as well as the warmth and suntrap-like nature of this specific area mark it out from the much larger, somewhat wild Corbières region.

“The Carignan, the soils, the climate, all are exceptional, and while 2005 was our first vintage as an appellation, we have been working together for 20 years,” says Pierre Bories, president of the Boutenac Winegrowers’ Association and winemaker at Château Ollieux Romanis.

Indeed, he says the producers are working together on massale selection for the Carignan in the area, a grape with a dubious reputation, but clearly unwarranted here, not least due to its drought tolerance and naturally high levels of acidity.

3. Saint Chinian Berlou

A view across vineyards near Saint Chinian Berlou and Roquebrun to the peaks of Gorges D’Heric. Photo from www.le-guide.com

Saint Chinian Berlou is set apart from the much larger Saint Chinian region due to its elevated position in the foothills of the Cevennes Mountains, where poor, free-draining soils and a broad diurnal temperature range bring a point of difference to the wines.

The fact Saint-Chinian is also home to a further cru in Roquebrun (see next page) lends weight to the view that this is the best AOP in the region, according to Jean- François Izarn at Domaine Borie la Vitarèle.

Although he does add: “There are two different styles of Saint-Chinian, one from the schist, and the other from the limestone.”

As for the advent of the crus, he warns: “You can have the best terroir and make the worst wine, the most important [thing] is the people, and the truth is there are good places everywhere in the Languedoc.”

4. Saint Chinian Roquebrun

Like Berlou, Saint Chinian Roquebrun achieved cru status due to its superior terroir based on a higher position and better soil drainage.

However, Roquebrun is a little different from the others, as this cru is almost entirely controlled by one producer – a co-op.

With around 99% of the production in the area, there are just a further five independent producers within the Roquebrun cru.

Nevertheless, as Matthew Stubbs MW, who runs Vinécole in the Languedoc-Roussillon (and ran a London-based course on the region) says: “It’s a very good cooperative in a very good region.”

5. Faugères: grand terroir de schiste

Faugères vineyard showing schist at Domaine La Sarabande. Photo taken by the owners, Isla and Paul Gordon

Among the 10 areas looking to upgrade to cru status, Faugères appears to have already, somewhat cheekily, attempted to elevate its reputation beyond merely grand vin du Languedoc.

This has been achieved by rebranding itself as Faugères: grand terroir de schiste.

Around half the size of neighbouring Saint-Chinian, and sharing some of its bedrock, Faugère’s urge to differentiate itself along quality lines is understandable, but the descriptor, adopted this year to celebrate 30 years since the area was declared an AOC, is not officially recognised.

However, Faugères, along with Terrasses du Larzac, are certainly hot-tipped to become crus soon.