Blaufrankisch prepares for the limelight

Austria tied its colours firmly to the Blaufrankisch mast yesterday, picking out the variety as its strongest ambassador to build the country’s reputation as a serious red wine producer.

Chaired by the drinks business and hosted by the Institute of Masters of Wine, the round table discussion brought together expertise from across the trade to establish the quality and identity of Blaufränkisch, together with its future potential in export markets.

There was universal agreement at the table that Blaufränkisch was the only viable ambassador for Austria’s red wines. In terms of production levels, only Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt have a sufficiently large presence to justify a concerted export focus.

Although Zweigelt has nearly double the plantings of Blaufränkisch, Willi Klinger, managing director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board spoke for the room when he observed: “Zweigelt is a good ambassador, but has it the great wine potential as well as the entry level potential? Blaufränkisch needs to be a great wine; it needs that elevage.”

Since 1999, Austria’s plantings of the variety have increased by 22%, as part of a steady increase in the overall proportion of the country’s red wine production, which now stands at 35%.

The growing confidence and belief in the variety was evident from the comments made by producers Markus Kirnbauer and Silvia Prieler, who highlighted it as offering “great ageability and very food friendly”. For Kirnbauer, Blaufränkisch is “like Pinot Noir; it speaks for its region”.

Nevertheless, with just 3,200 hectares of Blaufränkisch planted in Austria, of which 95% is found in Burgenland, Klinger maintained: “We are looking for a very select audience worldwide.”

Pointing to an opportunity in the increasing number of wine lovers who have been priced out of the Bordeaux market, Klinger observed: “We are trying to find people looking for something a little unique, but really with a class and character.”

As for the problem of promoting a little-known variety with difficult pronunciation, the panel took heart from the success of Austria’s Grüner Veltliner in the UK.

“One of the things I have admired about Austrian wine is its longterm focus”, observed Lance Foyster MW, director of Clark Foyster Wines. Recalling the situation 10 years ago, he reminded: “When people were laughing about Grüner Veltliner’s pronunciation, they said ‘we are just going to carry on and we will get the message across’.

“If you care as much about the story of Blaufränkisch, then I think you will get your message across to the trade and consumers”.

Lynne Sherriff MW laid out her belief that now is the right moment for Austria to begin showing off its red expertise to export markets. “The quality of your white wines was always there”, she maintained, “but for me the quality of the reds is now much better; before it had too much oak.”

Summing up the afternoon’s energetic discussion, Klinger said: “I feel it in the air; it’s like the exciting moment when Grüner Veltliner got a kick.”

For a full report on the Blaufränkisch round table, look out for the July issue of the drinks business. To learn more about the various styles of Blaufränkisch, visit the Austrian Wine stands at I50/J50.

Gabriel Savage, 18.05.2011